Collar



Dec. 16, 1941. w. RUBINSTEIN I 2,266,271

COLLAR Filed May 22, 1939 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 2 Sheets-She et 2 COLLAR W. RUBINSTEIN Filed May 22, 1939 Dec. 16, 1941.

Patented Dec. 16, 1941 COLLAR Wilton Rubinstein, Clayton, Mo., assignor of onehalf to :Wilton Rubinstein, as trustee; and EdwardGreensfelder, as co-trustee, for Blanche Rubinstein, Louise Rubinstein; Ann Rubinsteim] and Peggy Rubinstein ApplicationiM 'Ihisinvention relatesto collars; and has spe-' cial reference to collars of the turned down type worn in connection with mens shirts and each of which comprises a band and a cape, A turned down collar made in accordance with the present invention comprises an exposed ply and an infold ply each composed of a band section and a cape section attached together in a manner to provide a clearly defined longitudinal fold line along the upper margin of the cape which extends downwardly a short distance into the band below said fold line'and is attached thereto in a novel manner inorder to provide afinished collar. I f

Objects of the invention are to provide a turned, down apparel collar in which the exposed and infold plies include separate band and cape sec tions confining between them band and cape lining sections, respectively, and novel means at.- taching together. the upper margin of the ban and a downwardly extended upper margin of the cape to provide a longitudinal fold line clearly.

defining the band and. thecape; to include in the upper marginal attaching portion of the'cape a strip extending longitudinally along the fold line and downwardly a short distance iintq the cape and also downwardly a short distanceinto the attaching portion of the. band cooperating with the exposed and infold plies of the cape and with the attaching portion of the band to. form a clearly defined longitudinal fold line; and

to provide novel means attaching said strip .and

the cape lining section to the infold ply of the cape in a manner to prevent the cape lining section from abrading or. otherwise damaging the collar plies, thereby forming a turned down col.-

lar with a clearly defined foldline and having the attachingmeans uniting the band and the cape concealed in the collar. v

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved turned down collar having the plies thereof including separate band and cape portions and having a fold line along and adjacent to the upper edge of the completedband, with a strip extending longitudinally along said fold line and across the same and downwardly into the ,band and cape, with concealed attaching means securing the said strip and the cape lining section to the infold ply and defining one longitudinal side of the fold line.

Various other objects and advantages of the invention should be apparent from the following description, reference beingmade to the annexed drawings, in whichiz-z; 1939, Serial No. 274,948

1 '9 Claims. (cl.'2-'-1s1) of the infold ply of the capehaving the longitudinal strip attached thereto by two rows of stitches parallel to the arc of the cape.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the concealed'side of g the exposed ply of the cape having the cape lining section thereon, parts of the cape lining section and of th-e exposed ply; being broken away to disclose the attached infold plyof the cape having the longitudinal strip attached to the upper margin thereof.

Fig. 3 is'a plan view showing the exposed ply of the cape after the attached partsare turned rightside out from their position shown in Fig. 2,

a part of the exposed ply of the cape being broken away to disclose the concealed attaching.

means securing the upper margin of the cape lining section to the longitudinal strip andthe;

infold ply of the cape.

Fig'. 4 is a plan 'view similar toFig. 3, showing the cape after the finishing row of stitches has'lbeen formed along the end and lower margins thereof.

Fig. 5' is an enlarged plan view of the infold side of the cape superimposed upon the exposed ply of theband and attached thereto by a curved line of stitches parallel with the two curved rows of stitches attaching the longitudinal strip to the infold Ply.

Fig. 6 is an enlarged plan view, turned over from the position shown in Fig. 5,showing the.

exposed ply of the band superimposed upon the exposed ply of the cape, parts of the exposed ply of the band being broken away to disclose the infold ply of the band attached to adjacent cooperating parts of the collar.

Fig, 7 is an extended plan view of the ex'-;

posed side of thecompleted collar.

Fig. 8 is an enlargedcross-sectional view of v the completed collar extended.

F g. 9 is an enlarged sectional view showing the attaching means for the band and cape and illustrating the clearly defined fold line.

Fig. 10 is a diagrammatic sectional view of the completed collar partly folded.

f The exposed ply l and the infold ply 2 of the cape section are of approximately equal dimensions so that, when superimposed one upon the other in unfolded form as in Fig. 2 their edges are even. These plies are of a width to provide 5 along their upper portions margins I and 2' in:-

cluding the fold line of the collar and extending downwardly into the band (Fig. 10).

, A strip 3 of textile material, cut on the bias so that its threads 4 extend obliquely across the Fig. 1 is a plan View showing the concealed side strip from edge to edge, is attached to the con subsequent operations are performed in such a manner as to define the fold line within the area- 7 between the lines of stitches 5 and B.

After the strip 3 has been attached to the concealed side of the cape infold ply 2, the exposed ply l with the cape liningsection; 8 on the ultimately concealed side thereof issuperimposed upon the exposed side of the cape section 2, and the plies l and 2 and the cape lining section 8 are attached together by a line of stitches 9 along their end and lower margins and in an inside-out relationship of the parts.

Next, the cape is turned rightside out from therelationship of the parts shown. in Fig. 2 to the relationship of said parts shown in Fig- 3, so that the upper margin of the cape lining section 8 just slightly overlaps that margin. of the strip 3 through which'the line of stitches 5 extends. Moreover, the edge of the cape lining: section 8 is approximately even with the line of stitches 5. Then a lin of zigzag stitches H]: is formed along the edge of the. cape lining section 8. across the edge of said lining section and. across the line of stitches: 5 through the ply 2:, the strip '3, and the lining section. 8. These lines of stitches 5- and lflwiththe upper edge of the lining section 8 constitute a border clearly defining one side of the longitudinal fold line of the collar, and the line of stitches l prevents the margin of the.

lining section. 8 from raveling; maintains one side of the fold line indefinitely, and prevents. the upper edge of the lining section 8 from injuring the exposed ply of the collar. In this relationship of the parts, the upper edge of the lining section 8 is. between the exposed ply l and the strip 3. Next, the finishing line of stitches II is formed along the end and lower margins of the cape, producing a finished appearance and holding the parts permanently in the relationship shown in- Figs. 8 and 10.

The cape thus formed is then; superimposed upon the exposed ply [2 of the band to the con-- cealed side of which the band lining. section l3- had'been attached by a line of stitches l4 along the upper margin of said lining section. In. this position, the ultimately exposed surfaces of the plies I and I2 aretoward each. other, and the band section I2 is attached to the marginal portions I and 2 of the cape and to the strip 3 by a line of stitches l5 parallel with and very close to the line of stitches 6 and preferably between the lines of stitches 5 and 6.

cape (Fig. 5).

Then the parts thus attached are turned over from the position shown: in Fig. 5 to the position shown in Fig. 6, in which latter position the band ply I2 is upon the ply l. The parts attached as in Fig. 5 are superimposed upon the ply N5 of the band and are attached. thereto by a line of stitches l1 running from one end of the band to the other, and also attaching the ply Hi to th marginal edges I and 2 of the plies I and 2 beyond or below the line of stitches l5 and approximately parallel therewith. Then, the band thus formed is turned rightside out from the This lineof stitches extends the full length of theposition shown in Fig. 6 to the position shown in Fig. 7, and a line of stitches I8 is formed through the folded margins of the band plies l2 and I6 and through the interposed margins I and 2' of the cape plies l and 2 and through that margin of the strip 3 that extends across the fold line I and downwardly into the band, and another line of stitches I9 is formed through the plies I2 and I6 and the interposed band lining section I3 below the edges of the margins I and 2-. All of these lines of attaching stitches cooperate to hold the parts in proper relationship so that, in the finished collar, the clearly defined f'old line 1 isprovided along the strip 3 and between thestitches 5 and [5. The zigzag stitches l0. cooperateintimately with the stitches 5 and functionally cooperate therewith at all times to define one 'side'of the fold line and also to prevent. the margin of the cape lining section 8 from raveling or injuring the adjacent plies or parts of. the collar. -The folded margins .of the; band plies with their parallel lines of attaching stitches I5 and "cooperate intimatelywith each other and with theattached band plies to'form and define clearly the opposite side of the longitudinal fold line of the collar,'so that it is practically impossible for the collar to be folded for use otherwise than along the fold line 7. Therefore, in the completed collar, the controlled fold rately controlled, and'all of the parts that tune-'- tion to provide this controlled fold line are concealed in the band or at the concealed sides of the plies, and. all bulging of the parts at the fold line is avoided and prevented.

From the .foregoing, it is apparent that I have produced a collar of. the turned down type that is sometimes called a two-piece collar,-in'

which each of the plies is composed of two parts and which parts are attached together and to the other cooperating elements of the collar by fastening lines oi stitches controlling and forming a. controlled fold line from one end of the collar tothe other. These attaching lines of stitches are not visible along the cape of the .collar, and the confined parts that cooperate therewith are concealed between the collar plies. The construction, arrangement and order of assembly of the parts may be varied from the specific preceding description without departure from the nature and principle of the invention asdefined by the appended: claims.

Iclaim:

1. In a. turned down collar composed .of a band and a cape each including an exposed ply and an infold ply and having the upper margins of said cape plies confined between and attached to the upper margins of said band plies; a textile:

strip'attached along parallel spaced lines to the fold line of the collar and extending a distance into the cape beyond the upper margin of the band, and confined between said plies and means attached both to said strip. and said infold ply of the cape cooperating with. the upper longi-.

tudinal edge of the band to forma controlled tween said attaching of the cape.,.

2. In a turned down: collar. composed of a band and a cape each including .an exposed plyand an infold ply and having the upper margins of said cape plies confined between and attached. to theupper marginsoof saidrband: plies; a cape.

lining section confined betweenis'aid cape'plies and having its upper edge fiat and unfolded and separated from the upper edges of the band by a longitudinal fold line, a strip attached to the concealed side of the upper margin of the infold ply of the cape only at opposite sides of the fold line of the collar and extending longitudinally along said fold line and having its margins extending a short distance downwardly into the band and cape, respectively, and a line of stitches attaching the unfolded upper edge of said lining section and said strip to said infold ply at and along one side of said fold line and cooperating with the upper longitudinal edge of the band to form a controlled longitudinal fold line along said strip.

3. In a turned down collar composed of a band and a cape each including an exposed ply and an infold ply and having the upper margins of said cape plies confined between and attached to the upper margins of said band plies; a strip attached to the concealed side of the upper margin of the infold ply of the cape only at opposite sides of the fold line of the collar and extending downwardly a distance into the band and cape, a cape lining section having its upper edge flat and unfolded and separated by a longitudinal fold line space from the upper edge of 4 the band, and a line of stitches concealed by the exposed ply of the cape attaching the unfolded upper edge of said lining section to said strip and to the cape infold ply and cooperating with the upper longitudinal edge of the band to form a controlled longitudinal fold line along said strip and between said line of stitches and the upper edge of the cape.

4. In a turned down collar composed of a band and a cape each including an exposed ply and an infold ply and having the upper margins of said cape plies confined between and attached to the upper margins of said band plies; a strip extending along the concealed side of the upper margin of the infold ply of the cape, curved parallel lines of stitches attaching said strip to the infold ply of the cape only at opposite sides of and definitely controlling a longitudinal fold line along said strip a distance from the upper edges of the cape plies, a cape lining section having its flat and unfolded upper edge along one side of said fold line, and a line of stitches attaching the upper edge of said lining section to said strip and the infold ply and cooperating with said first named lines of stitches in forming said controlled fold line.

5. In a turned down collar composed of a band and a cape each including an exposed ply and an infold ply and having the upper margins of said cape plies turned downwardly along a longitudinal fold line and extending downwardly between the upper margins of said band plies; a strip on the concealed side of the upper margin of the infold ply of the cape extending longitudinally along and downwardly into the band and cape at opposite sides of said fold line, two longitudinal curved lines of stitches separated by and controlling said fold line attaching said strip to said infold ply of posed and infold plies having its .fiateand unfolded upper edge approximately even with one of said lines of stitches, a'line of stitches concealed by said cape exposed ply crossing the upper edge of said lining section and said one line of stitches and attaching said lining section to said strip and said cape infold ply and cooperating with said'two lines of stitches to controlthe .fold line of .the collar, and concealed lines of stitches attaching the margins of said cape plies between the band plies of the collar at the opposite side of said fold line.

6. In a turned down collar composed of a band and a cape each including an exposed ply and an infold ply and having the upper margins of said cape plies turned downwardly along a longitudinal fold line and extending downwardly between the upper margins of said band plies; a

longitudinal strip extending along the concealed side of the upper margin of the infold ply of the cape, spaced lines of stitches concealed by the exposed ply of the cape attaching said strip to the cape infold ply only and forming a controlled longitudinal fold line between them, and a line of stitches concealed by the plies of the band attaching the upper margins of both cape plies and one margin of said strip beyond said fold line to the collar band.

'7. In a turned down collar composed of a band and a cape each including an exposed ply and an infold ply and having the upper margins of said cape plies turned downwardly along a longitudinal fold line and extending downwardly between the upper margins of said band plies; a longitudinal strip extending along the concealed side of the upper margin of the infold ply of the cape, spaced lines of stitches concealed by the exposed ply of the cape attaching said strip to the cape infold ply only and'forming a controlled longitudinal fold line between them, a line of stitches concealed by the plies of the band attaching the upper margins of both cape plies and one margin of said strip beyond said fold line to the collar band, and a cape lining section and an attaching line of stitches for the upper edge thereof concealed by the exposed ply of the cape cooperating with said lines of stitches to define and control one longitudinal side of said fold line.

8. In a turned down collar composed of a band I and a cape each including an exposed ply and an infold ply and having the upper margins of said cape plies turned downwardly along a longitudinal fold line and extending downwardly between the upper margins of said band plies; a strip extending along the concealed side of the upper margin of the infold ply of the cape, a cape lining section having its fiat and unfolded upper edge along one margin of said strip, curved parallel lines of stitches attaching said lining section and said strip to the infold ply of the cape only and defining a controlled longitudinal fold line along said strip, and lines of stitches attaching the upper margins of said cape plies between the upper margins of the band plies within the band and downwardly beyond said fold line.

9. In a turned down collar composed of a band and a cape each including an exposed ply and an infold ply and having the upper margins of said cape plies "turned downwardly along a longitudinal fold line and extending downwardly between the upper margins of said band plies;

the cape, a cape lining section between said ex lining section having its flat and unfoldedupper 1 margin along one margin of said strip below said fold line and within the cape, a line of stitches attaching the unfolded upper edge of said lining section to said strip and infcld. ply and cooperating with saidlines of stitches to maintain said fold line, and a line of stitches concealed by said band plies attaching the upper margins of the cape plies and said strip to the upper margins of the band plies.

' WILTON RUBINSTEIN. 

